“Going Retro” (M6) is sort of an amusing route for me. We called the route “Going Retro” because the first clip is actually some old mining chain or something of the sort. It’s pretty amusing to clip a piece of chain link that is so big you can fit your hand through it.
So instructing while belaying my friend Jack as he bolted one of his first routes, I got to see my vision come to life. This route is amusing in that it would be considered by some roadside choss pile. I have to admit, I’m almost embarrassed to say that I spent the time and money to bolt it. That being said said, it’s quite popular as it’s a blast to climb, and photographs damn well for an M6.
In a photo shoot with Andy Burr and Caroline George I received and endless amount of grief because I was hamming it up, continually looking back toward the photographer. But I was trying to unleash my “magnum” look and I had the climb fairly wired. Andrew did a good job of capturing both the route and my incredible modeling talent. In fact, I’d say he gave it a larger than life appeal, especially in some of the shots where Caroline was climbing. The route looks stunning with the Bird Brain Boulevard wall in the background.
So was it worth the time and money to bolt? Hell ya! It’s an easy approach, one of the easier mixed climbs all in a beautiful setting. What more could one want?
