Archive for February, 2009

Mission Panama: Part 1 – Dana Point

Saturday, February 28th, 2009
Lisa at Dana Point, CA

Lisa at Dana Point, CA

Our original plan was to climb in Las Vegas prior to going to LA, but it was raining when we woke up in Las Vegas, so back on the road it was.  The Dana Point portion of the trip was primarily about visiting family so I don’t have many super interesting stories to tell.  Lisa’s sister Erin is doing great, and she has an adorable son that’s about 10 months old.
I also had the pleasure of going to an apple store while I was there.  They always put the apple stores in the most trendy malls in any city.  Do only yuppies use Macs?  Why wasn’t I warned about this?  This is something nobody told be about.

I can’t help but feel way out of place, mixed with inadequacy in these hipster malls. Especially when my clothing was chosen for climbing purposes and the beaches and jungles of Central America.  It’s not the stores themselves that are so bad, except for the price tags, but the stores I must pass by in order to reach the Apple Stores; the Gap, Steve Madden Footwear, various diamond shopes, other trendy things I’ve blocked from my consciousness…  I think these places were created for people with too much money and no passions or hobbies.  The are for these specail people, like trophy wives, who find enjoyment in spending way too much money on things they don’t really need. It’s like another world that doesn’t exist in Ouray.  It is in fact it is a world that doesn’t exists in Ouray.  I have all the cool clothes it takes be live in Ouray; the latest in schoeller and gor tex fabrics, gloves that keep my hands dry, an arsenal of ice climbing equipment, and they all work together to bring out the colors in my eyes!

I feel a bit like a dirty hippie at trendy shopping malls in Southern California. Maybe I just didn’t bring the proper clothes, nor spend enough time primping myself to fit in.

I can’t help but envision myself working at an apple store.  I think I’m qualified.  I know about as much as these “genius’” as so they are called at the Apple stores.  I just don’t have all the spare parts and tools to fix the machines myself.  Now when it comes to web design, few can hold a candle to me, but fixing computers is not an area I specialize in (despite what some clients or family members my sometimes believe).  I think I would find having to explain the same subjects and concepts over and over to people who may never understand tiresome.

“Yes there are little people that live inside the computer,” I will tell them.  “They look like those gnome creatures that people put in their gardens.  It is them that took your files.  You’re going to have to communicate directly with them.”


Our beach workout: sets of 40, 30, 20, 10 of burpess (a push up followed by a jump), lunges, and sit – ups.  That ends up being 100 of each excersize.
We were watching Erin’s son Sebastian for the day, so getting out of the house was more troublesome than usual, usual meaning epic for our family.  Getting focused was a challenge as I was already frazzled.  Burpees in the soft sand kind of suck!  The movement, just digs a hole in the sand, and thus you must either constantly keeping moving, or somehow adjust accordingly.  The sand smelt of seagull excrement, and so putting my nose to the sand in the push up really wasn’t that nice.  I ended up betraying the novelty of working out on the beach, and retreated to the grass in the park along it.  Maybe working out on the beach is better in photos than in real life.

Red Bull and Vodka

Wednesday, February 18th, 2009

With my friend Jack having moved to Vail this past year, spending a few weekends climbing in Vail was on the must do list this year.  I sent most of the first pitch routes in the Fang Amphitheater, including the 3rd ascent of Steel Balls (M9).    My main Vail goat was a route called Red Bull and Vodka (M11) that I had seen Harry Berger and Ines Papert get the first ascents of a couple years ago. On Ines’ redpoint attempt, she got to the ice and a horizontal fracture line appeared going about 40 ft.   The whole Fang pillar, that was not yet touching down, cut loose and plummeted toward me and my friends.  It was surreal and in slow motion, it seemed I had plenty of time to run away.  In retrospect, I wouldn’t have gotten hit by it, but it was so big that the sky went dark as it passed by.

So why would I want to climb such a thing? That’s a good question.  I guess because it’s one of the coolest looking and hardest routes in Vail.  My buddy Jack, worked the route out for me, gave me the beta, and I got the “hero” send on it.  I’m not sure if getting instructions yelled from about 50 ft. while upside down on a horizontal roof is really helpful, but the company was nice.  My send of the route was either the 3rd or 4th ascent of the route.  Yes, the thought of the Fang Pillar snapping on me did occur as I stemmed over onto it.  It was so good to get my weight off my arms that I was pretty OK with it though.  The ice went for about 35 ft. and was bullet hard, like glass.  The fusion ice tools have too steep of a pick angle, and thus I had to work hard to finish the final section.

Thanks to Stanley (Stanislav Vrba) for taking these photos!

Ouray Ice Park

Thursday, February 12th, 2009

Being so convienient, you can’t help be climb in the Ice Park.  Besides, it’s acutally quite pretty in there.  After doing 80 pullups in five minutes at crossfit, plus some other feats of strength, Lisa and I went down to the Ice Park to get our photo taken by our friend Helen Richardson from the Denver Post.  There wasn’t much open, as it was a busy weekend in the Ice Park.  Grandma’s Glass Pony Shop WI5+/6 was open however and so we did that one.   Lisa didn’t know that it was one of the hardest pitches of ice in the Ice Park. Hee hee… she should know who she’s climbing with.  The route is pretty much 140 ft. of sustained, vertical ice climbing.

There’s a few other photos on a route called Super Dave, those are the ones on the rock.  I wasn’t even aware those were being taken.

Evil Has No Boundaries

Tuesday, February 10th, 2009

I was feeling like there wasn’t much left for me to climb aroud here.  I’ve done most of the hard routes around.  I noticed in the guidebook that the route “Evil Has No Boundaries” was the hardest route in the Ouray Ice Park, and that it only had a couple of ascents.  The seemed like a logical one to get done, so I set to it.  I put quickdraws on it one day, and returned the following day to climb it. My friend Helen, a photographer for the Denver Post, happend to be in the park that day with her camera and got some great shots for me.

On my first go, I broke a hold in the begining, but caught myself before I fell.  “Crap, that was an important one.” The next hold was pretty far away, so I crouched up, and jumped for it.  My tool stuck it and I was back on track.  Not for long however.  I was setting up for the next big move, and both holds my picks were on simutaniously broke off taking me with them.

I lowered back to the base, shook it off, and got ready to go again.  I worked past the missing holds by jumping past them and with big powerful lunges.  The holds are not very big on Evil Has No Boundaries and so you really need to be careful about keeping the direction of pull on your tools consistent.  I finished the route by traversing over to a hanging dagger that was pouring with water from road run-off.    That’s about that. Evil Has No Boundaries was rated M10, and how much harder it is now, I don’t know.

Hope you enjoy the images.  They are cropped in the thumbnail version, but when you click on them, you’ll get the full version.

Zane’s Music Mix

Friday, February 6th, 2009

Zane mixed up this song with some software for my birthday.  Check it out, it’s pretty good.  The second half is better than the first.   He’s got a few others that are quite good too.

Mix for J’s Birthday

You can also check out Zane’s radio program at http://ouray.k12.co.us/Teachers/KURA/firstindex.htm.  It airs, 5-6 pm MST on Wednesday evenings.

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