Because we’re focused on efficiency these days (isn’t everyone), be it gas mileage, or just time well spent, we’ve been doing speed laps at one of the local crags. Â We get lots of mileage in this way and it doesn’t take much time. Â The “game” goes like this: Climb for speed, rest equal amount of time climbing, repeat as necessary. Â If you’re still not getting a workout, add a twenty pound weight vest, not only does it add to your weight, but it restricts your lung compacity too! Â You’ll have a days worth of climbing in an hour or two and time to do other things!Click here to view the video
Archive for September, 2008
Training – Speed Climbing
Tuesday, September 30th, 2008Lightline
Monday, September 29th, 2008
Here are some photos of our “rest day” adventure. Â We climbed “Lightline” and then did some drytooling up at skylight.
Trilogy – Round Two
Friday, September 19th, 2008
Round 1 – About 5 years ago, Lisa and I were feeling sassy and went to climb a route in the Black Canyon called Trilogy, for our second route that day. Â Trilogy is a spicy 6 pitch 5.12 route. Â By the time we descended the Cruise gully, then did the 400 ft. or so of sketchy scrambling (in the Black that means free soloing choss) to the base, the route was roasting in the sun. Â I made it to the first bolt, about 30 ft or so up, looked at the traversing nature and runouts, and decided it might not be a good route for the two of us that day. Â
Round 2 – I met Jack in the Black for two days of climbing. Â We decided to start on a shorter route the first day and then do a longer one the following day. Â A short route in the Black is 6 pitches. Â Again it was hot and mid-day by the time we got to the route. Â Again the scrambling was attention getting. Again it was my lead. Â Things went better this time though. Â I made it back to my previous high point, which was the first bolt some 30 ft. off the ground. Â The second bolt was another 25 feet to the right. Â A fall would result in a hideous pendulum that would land you very close to the ledge if not on it. Â The third bolt was another 20 feet above the second, again you’d be coming very close to hitting the ledge in fall. Â I made it through the spicy bits and was finishing up the well protected part of the pitch, when a hold broke and cut my finger. Â The fall was small, but the cut was deep enough that climbing another 5 pitches of 5.12 would be problematic. Â We rapelled and made out way back up the hot, steep, loose, poison ivy filled Cruise gully and back to the car. Â Maybe the third time will be a charm?
The picture is more gory if you click on it to enlarge it.
Goddess on the Rocks – NH
Saturday, September 13th, 2008Â
It’s good to be home after yet another journey. Â This time we went to Maine and New Hampshire to visit family and teach climbing clinics at Sterling Rope’s Goddess on the Rocks Event. Â Having grown up somewhere certainly puts a different spin on traveling there. Â That and having your whole family live there too. Â Most of the trip was spent visiting family, eating and drinking. Â We kept up with our Cross Fit workouts for most of the trip which kept us from feeling too fat. Â Â Â
Prior to the Sterling Event, Lisa and I went out with Photographer Andrew Burr for a photo shoot. Â I look forward to seeing the shots as there should be some good ones. We did some really aesthetic routes for the photo shoot like the Prow and the Airation crack.
The Sterling Event was plagued with off and on rain, but we were able to get enough climbing in with the clients. Â It just left us a bit disorganized. Â Lisa and I joined our group with Alli Rainey’s group so the clients would have an all-star cast of instructors:-) Â That and I like staring at her muscles. Â Wait, did I say that out loud? Â I mean we enjoy her company. Â
I recently purchased on of Olympus’ new camera’s that go underwater. Â That was fun to have on the trip. Â The water’s too cold in Colorado for underwater photography. Â It was getting a little chilly in Maine too, but I was pretty psyched to try the camera so I toughed it out. Â I got some shots of a sting ray, a big eel, and of course, Lisa.
I’m now looking forward to working on some of my projects (house and climbing) back here in Ouray. Â I’ve got routes that need to be climbed, wood to gather, cut and split for the winter, and likely more things to do than I have time for. The mountains are getting covered in snow and I’m looking forward to ice climbing this winter. Â Getting dressed up in all that fancy gear makes you feel like a knight going into battle, but in more of a fashion sense. Â Big ambitions, limited time, over abundance of talent 
